Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their children do not want to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these tales and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
